Comments on: The Real Deal http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/ an unusual story of a boy and his truck Thu, 28 Aug 2008 01:57:14 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.5 by: Chris http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-23 Sun, 15 Jan 2006 17:26:01 +0000 http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-23 My chosen ratio is based on a 30" outer tire diameter, which is what you see in the pictures, on the rear wheels at least. The front tires are a weird size, a little smaller in diameter. When I had to change the rear tires to get the truck to pass inspection (back when I was still driving it), no one in town had tires like what were on the truck. So, I'm hoping to find something in that size. Initially I'd like to get something that will fit the wheels I already have (which are 15 by 8.5). The 30" ET Street tires on this page are for 10" wide wheels, I don't know if 8.5 would be too much of a stretch to be safe. Ultimately though, it looks like these tires are the way to go. I like that they use tubes, so I can get the PSI nice and low without worrying about losing air. Also nice that they're wrinkle wall. Until I can justify the cost of new wheels though (which will have to be after the truck is on the road), I'll go with the BFG or Nitto drag radials. My chosen ratio is based on a 30″ outer tire diameter, which is what you see in the pictures, on the rear wheels at least. The front tires are a weird size, a little smaller in diameter. When I had to change the rear tires to get the truck to pass inspection (back when I was still driving it), no one in town had tires like what were on the truck.

So, I’m hoping to find something in that size. Initially I’d like to get something that will fit the wheels I already have (which are 15 by 8.5). The 30″ ET Street tires on this page are for 10″ wide wheels, I don’t know if 8.5 would be too much of a stretch to be safe.

Ultimately though, it looks like these tires are the way to go. I like that they use tubes, so I can get the PSI nice and low without worrying about losing air. Also nice that they’re wrinkle wall. Until I can justify the cost of new wheels though (which will have to be after the truck is on the road), I’ll go with the BFG or Nitto drag radials.

]]> by: Ryan http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-22 Sun, 15 Jan 2006 16:44:33 +0000 http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-22 Just put some 26x10.5x15 ET Streets on it. If they can fit in a Mustang's tiny wheel wells, I'm sure they will fit on your truck. http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip_et_street.html That tire has the most traction of any DOT tire's. Or use a 28" tall tire or taller for even more contact patch.. Just put some 26×10.5×15 ET Streets on it. If they can fit in a Mustang’s tiny wheel wells, I’m sure they will fit on your truck.

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip_et_street.html

That tire has the most traction of any DOT tire’s. Or use a 28″ tall tire or taller for even more contact patch..

]]> by: Chris http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-21 Fri, 13 Jan 2006 20:14:17 +0000 http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-21 Wow, cool! Thanks for making the connection there. Honestly though, while I'm seriously concerned about getting the power to the ground, it's more due to my lack of available width for decent tires (since I can't really narrow the frame or do tubs), than for the actual torque that the rear wheels will see -- at least for the time being. Although a transmission is among my plans for the future, not having one to begin with significantly reduces the final torque. The torque from the motor itself will be just crazy according to my projections, but it won't be multiplied before going to the rear end. I have a 4.11 gear set for the rear, but this is still the equivalent of about "3 1/2th gear" compared to stock. Bear in mind though, my friend's MR2 with half the available amps and an 11" motor, can bark the tires in 4th with warm batteries -- or "will again" anyway, once we rebuild the poor abused tranny. :o) For what it's worth I have a crazy idea for a motor hack that might provide me with a significantly lower "gear" in an electrical sense, beyond what's available even with this motor's dual field. But it's a long shot and might not even work (or might damage the motor, etc). For the time being though, assuming a continuous motor torque of 1100 ft-lbs at 2000A (which I think is conservative), you're looking at a total 4521 ft-lbs at the rear axle. 2260 per wheel. Respectable, but not really that much I think, in the context of drag racing. The good news is that I'll be able to hold that torque continuously from 0 RPM to wherever the knee in the graph ends up as the controller exits motor current limit -- and not knowing quite where that's going to be is part of the fun of being a seat-of-the-pants early adopter. Wow, cool! Thanks for making the connection there.

Honestly though, while I’m seriously concerned about getting the power to the ground, it’s more due to my lack of available width for decent tires (since I can’t really narrow the frame or do tubs), than for the actual torque that the rear wheels will see — at least for the time being.

Although a transmission is among my plans for the future, not having one to begin with significantly reduces the final torque. The torque from the motor itself will be just crazy according to my projections, but it won’t be multiplied before going to the rear end. I have a 4.11 gear set for the rear, but this is still the equivalent of about “3 1/2th gear” compared to stock. Bear in mind though, my friend’s MR2 with half the available amps and an 11″ motor, can bark the tires in 4th with warm batteries — or “will again” anyway, once we rebuild the poor abused tranny. :o)

For what it’s worth I have a crazy idea for a motor hack that might provide me with a significantly lower “gear” in an electrical sense, beyond what’s available even with this motor’s dual field. But it’s a long shot and might not even work (or might damage the motor, etc).

For the time being though, assuming a continuous motor torque of 1100 ft-lbs at 2000A (which I think is conservative), you’re looking at a total 4521 ft-lbs at the rear axle. 2260 per wheel. Respectable, but not really that much I think, in the context of drag racing.

The good news is that I’ll be able to hold that torque continuously from 0 RPM to wherever the knee in the graph ends up as the controller exits motor current limit — and not knowing quite where that’s going to be is part of the fun of being a seat-of-the-pants early adopter.

]]> by: Tom Kirkley http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-20 Fri, 13 Jan 2006 19:17:30 +0000 http://www.ohmbre.org/blog/2006/01/10/the-real-deal/#comment-20 Chris, Just a short note to let you know I e-mailed the owner of the S-10 you refer to above, and he thought it was cool! That S-10 is running low 7's with a hurt engine, just think what it will do with a healthy engine. You might need to run a 275 series Drag radial to have a little traction, they may require a small tub to fit. If you are hitting them with 900+ lb-ft of motor torque they may just go up in smoke, so by two set at a time. Keep up the good work! Chris,
Just a short note to let you know I e-mailed the owner of the S-10 you refer to above, and he thought it was cool! That S-10 is running low 7’s with a hurt engine, just think what it will do with a healthy engine.
You might need to run a 275 series Drag radial to have a little traction, they may require a small tub to fit. If you are hitting them with 900+ lb-ft of motor torque they may just go up in smoke, so by two set at a time.
Keep up the good work!

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