Parts! A Really Big Switch

Filed under: Acquiring Parts — Chris at 12:52 am on Thursday, February 2, 2006

The Kilovac EV500

One of the four main components of an electric vehicle is the controller, which sends power to the motor as you request it with the throttle, instead of all at once. In the same way that fuel injectors spray metered blasts of fuel into your engine, instead of having the spark plugs mounted in the fuel tank. The way this is done today is with semiconductors, but it was once done with switches. Big switches which rearrange the battery pack into different voltage configurations to provide varying power to the motor. And those big switches are the part for the day.

Although modern electric vehicles are no longer controlled this way, these devices which are commonly known as contactors are still useful on modern EVs, for a couple reasons.

  • Semiconductors are not life-or-death reliable. Semiconductors rarely fail, but they can under certain circumstances and when this happens, the usual result is that they become conductive. This means full power going to your motor, no longer under your control. Contactors present a safety mechanism to disconnect the pack in that situation, and also as a way of ensuring that when the car is switched off, it’s really off.
  • Semiconductors are expensive; in some cases, it’s cheaper to use switches. Semiconductors are worth the price because they can switch quickly — many thousands of times per second. Where this speed isn’t needed, a switch is more cost effective. Examples of this are redirecting power for electric reverse for those like me who aren’t using transmissions, and something referred to as series-parallel switching, in which dual motors or dual coils on a single motor are connected in series for high torque and parallel for high speed to form a sort of two-speed electric transmission. This switching could be done with semiconductors inside the controller, but that would vastly increase its cost.

A contactor is really a fancy name for a relay, which some may be familiar with from car stereo installations or electronics. It’s a switch that’s actuated by an electromagnet. Instead of a flexible tab of metal common in small relays that is pulled to touch a contact to complete the circuit, a contactor typically has a large copper bar that is pulled down to bridge two contacts. Beyond that and the size difference, the two terms are the same. As a matter of fact, the manufacturer of the device in the picture refers to their products as “relays” not “contactors”.

The pictures of the contactor we’re looking at today, the Kilovac EV500 “Bubba”, were taken of one of four similar contactors that I currently have which I’d intended to use for this project. As usual though, things are a little complicated.

First, two of these contactors have auxiliary microswitches, and two do not. (I got these normally $800 contactors for a huge bargain, so I can’t complain.) What this means is that the latter two units are not able to communicate their status to the controller. This is a must-have feature — while switching from forward to reverse for example, if the controller doesn’t know that forward has not been properly disengaged and it applies the reverse configuration at the same time, the results would be catastrophic (at the very least I’d get to hear one of those fuses blow). I’ll be trying to work out a cheap way to provide this signal electronically, which promises to be challenging.

The second issue is how the contactor is made. This is an aerospace-grade electrical switch, and it’s no slouch — that 3000A disconnect rating is impressive, as is its continuous-carry rating of 750A at 25C. It’s equally impressive that they build them with a sealed, hydrogen-filled chamber; the gas acts as a dielectric to reduce arcing that can cause the contacts to weld. With all of this, the switch would seem ideal — and indeed some agree that it is. However, there’s one huge drawback that in many racers’ opinions is enough to justify avoiding this contactor. Its case is opaque and cannot be opened, so you can neither inspect nor replace the contacts.

For this reason, the device often used — way beyond its ratings I might add — is the traditional, reliable Albright SW200 series contactor. Make all the jokes you want about British-built electrical equipment in automobiles, this device is extremely popular among EV builders for its rugged construction, reliability, and inspectable, replaceable contacts. Though it has a continuous carry rating that’s a third that of the Bubba, and half the Bubba’s current break rating, the reality is that these contactors can, and routinely do, handle much higher voltages and currents than are specified. And if they do fail (this will almost certainly happen while racing, not on the street), the contact tips can be easily replaced. More importantly, damage that would predict such a failure can be seen and dealt with.

I will need 6 contactors in all to provide for series/parallel switching, electric reverse, and battery disconnect. The next two I buy will probably be the Albrights. At least I can use them as the main contactors, which would be the ones called upon in an emergency.

Link to today’s part.

2 Comments »

44

Comment by malcolm

February 24, 2006 @ 5:33 pm

hi chris. I have made a trike powered by a 24 volt dc motor using two 12 volt 85 amp batteries. The trike is controlled by a parralel — series rotary switch purchased at a local electric industrial store. the switch is 2 inch diameter and 4 inches long and can take high amps. the three position switch has three positions– off — paralell [ 12 volts]– series[24 volts] the switch is “break before make” I have used this trike for two years and many hundreds of miles. I find that this is far better than going the electronic route. my email malcolmettridge@btinternet.com feel free to contact me for more info. Regards Malcolm from Nottingham UK

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Comment by Chris

February 24, 2006 @ 6:04 pm

Sounds like a decent setup for your trike, but there are two reasons why I think this would be less advantageous for my application.

First, this arrangement only gives you two speeds, corresponding to twelve and 24 volts; with an electronic PWM control the speed selection is continuous as on a gasoline-powered car. Even at 4 or more speeds, with more elaborate switching, the vehicle’s acceleration would be very jerky given the power levels I’ve specified for my project.

Second, though your switch may handle “high amps” the problem isn’t just current handling, it’s voltage. I will be running a 348VDC system, with currents running up to 2000 amps on the motor side, and briefly up to 1600 amps on the battery side. (I need to put up a page about the controller, but currently it’s being borrowed for a somewhat notorious drag racing postal van). Breaking 1600 battery amps is not easy for any mechanical switch, and the very high voltage makes the situation much worse as it requires a much bigger gap. The massive sealed, hydrogen-filled contactor in this post is only expected to break that kind of current a few times, and trying to make contact under that kind of load would likely weld the contactor the very first time.

There is one thing that “contactor controllers” are good at, and that is efficiency. A friend of mine has an original Henney Kilowatt, which is a late 1950s conversion of a Renault Dauphine produced by the Henney Coach Company in partnership with the Eureka Vacuum Cleaner Company (believe it or not) here in the States. It is based on a contactor controller which gives four levels of power, by mechanically rearranging the battery pack. On any level except the first (which uses a huge resistor in series) there is nothing in the circuit but the batteries, switches and wiring. An electronic control always imposes a small amount of resistance, in the case of IGBTs it’s a constant voltage drop of about 2 volts when switched on. However, the losses are not extreme. Very little heat is generated by a modern IGBT-based controller during normal street driving and therefore little cooling is required.

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